3.5 miles of hiking • 2000' elevation gain •
Mt. Mitchell is one of the first hikes we did around Portland, after we'd moved out here, and winter had passed, and we were on our feet, so to speak. I've always been impressed with the views for the amount of effort required (definitely one of the best bangs-for-your-buck).
That said, I've oft noticed when viewing from Mt. St. Helens, or driving back along 503 above Swift reservoir in the winter, the snowy gullies that rise up Mt. Mitchell's North face. Well, I like to climb and couloir climbs are fun, so, I've always wanted to investigate this. I have a friend who has often gone to Tom Dick and Harry sack mountain to mess in the rocky snowy gullies there but that mountain never inspires me much. That said, I'm always wary about if I'd be able to get to the TH in the winter, thus our late season attempt.
I wish I knew what I was thinking, as, what could I have really expected for a late june climb below 4,000ft. Sure I knew there would be snow. My hope was it was consolidated and firm. Well.. it was consolidated but it was not a particularly cold night nor was it clear, so it didn't get too firm. Additionally, as I stared at maps, I guess I ignorantly ignored that while the creek generally is shown to start lower, obviously these gullies must feed it!
TH fine. Bushwack (with some old flagging?? want to explore that more...) to the gully, fine. up a bit, fine. But long story short, "Donny you're out of your element!". The couloir is a serious, serious avalanche chute. We saw tons and tons of debris, destroyed trees, and fallen rock in the snow. Thus I'd be exceedingly skeptical and cautious to climb in frozen winter conditions unless there was a fantastic weather pattern (which would probably send me to larger mountains). Eventually the fact that we were walking on a continual snowbridge got to be too much of an objective hazard, as the slope steepened and we were aware that there was in excess of a 20-60ft gap with the fin of snow below a waterfall/ledge in front of us.. (I'm having trouble explaining). We traversed off the snow and onto some 4th class mossy, dirty, wet ledges with occasional devil's club (one of the worst hand shakers I've met.. terrible grip!). We kept traversing to the east, over snow and rock until we made the north ridge. From there we were within 10 ft of the summit, maybe less, but the snow had pulled away from the rock, leaving yet another under-cut situation, except this time sans running water (big whoop). So we called it a day at that.
Even if ideal conditions, frozen, no running water, I worry about how the top-out would be if I followed the gully to the top.. a vertical wall of snow for 5 foot is bad enough, what if it is 20, 30 ft... retreat is only option.
To read a more extensive written by my climbing bud Jason, who accompanied me, visit: http://loomisadventures.com/blog/climbing-mount-mitchell-washington-nw-couloirs
